This can include recognizing that what you see is not harmful to the plant and can be safely ignored. It might mean using a stream of water to dislodge insects, picking beetles off plants, or using spun poylester fabric to keep insects off vegetables so they aren't eaten by them, instead of us. In some cases, if a pesticide will prevent serious harm to the plant, it will help us decide what is the safest product to use to solve the problem and do as little damage as possible to the plant, us and the environment around us.
There are good books available, we have knowledgeable staff that can help you, and photographs of all of the most common pests are now on our website and can be found in this section. It is also important to recognize that all holes in leaves are not caused by insects, and that plants can survive very well with holes in their leaves. As long as there is enough leaf surface for photosynthesis, part of a leaf is just fine. If there are holes in leaves, that doesn't necessarily mean that an insect is there at that time. It may have eaten its fill and have gone by the time you notice the damage.
There is no point in spraying a hole! Some holes are caused by a short-lived fungus. Spraying the tree with an insecticide, when a fungus which is no longer a problem caused the holes, is not going to help.
Insects such as ladybugs are wonderful aphid eaters and should be treasured. Remember, though, that you can't use insecticides in your garden and then expect the ladybugs to be happy there! Do you know what ladybug larvae look like? If you see little dark blue armadillos with orange spots on them, welcome them. They eat more aphids than their parents do.
Most fungus lives best in wet, cool weather. Our nights are very cool and fungus will thrive on moist, cool leaves. Watering in the morning, when the weather will hopefully become warmer and drier, will make it much less likely that a fungus will grow. Some insects are drawn to plants that are under stress. Giving them the best growing conditions you can will cut down on damage. Some varieties of a plant are resistant to common insects or diseases, and are worth considering.
If you decide that a chemical pesticide is appropriate, it is very important to READ THE LABEL! The manufacturer has gone to a great deal of effort to find the most useful and safe concentration to use, and to identify plants that it can be used for. Making the mixture stronger won't work better, it likely won't be as effective, and the plant may suffer from too strong a concentration. The label will tell you what plants it can be used on, what insects it controls, when and how often to use it and what the concentration should be. Do it!
Ask us for help if you are concerned about a pest problem. We'll help you sort it out. Happy gardening!
Purchase nematodes: You can purchase nematodes from us here at the shop. Ensure that you choose nematodes specifically formulated for chinch bug control.
Environmental conditions: Nematodes are most effective when the soil temperature is between 15°C and 30°C (59°F to 86°F). Ensure that the soil is moist before and after application, as it helps the nematodes move and seek out chinch bug larvae.
It's important to note that nematodes are living organisms and can be sensitive to various factors like UV light, extreme temperatures, and chemical pesticides. Therefore, it's crucial to handle and apply them according to the instructions provided by the manufacturer.
Say goodbye to the hassle of mixing and refrigerating nematodes. We're excited to present Nemaknights-a revolutionary product that simplifies pest control in your garden. With Nemaknights, all you have to do is shake and apply directly to your plants. No more messy preparations or refrigeration required. It's the convenient way to protect your garden from pests and keep your plants thriving.
NemaKnights contains Steinernema spp. nematodes. Contains Sf and/or Sc, offering control not only for chinch bugs but also for ants. While the specific formulation of Steinernema may vary, NemaKnights generally target and control a range of soil-dwelling insects and larvae.
To maximize the effectiveness of NemaKnights, it is recommended to apply the nematodes as spot treatments in heavily affected areas of your lawn. These nematodes will target and control the pests, minimizing the damage caused by chinch bugs and other insects.
It's important to note that the efficacy of Steinernema nematodes can vary depending on factors such as application timing, environmental conditions, pest species, and nematode species. Therefore, it's recommended to carefully read and follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer when using nematodes for pest control.
White Grubs: White grubs are the larvae of various beetle species, such as Japanese beetles and June beetles. They feed on grassroots and can cause significant damage to lawns and gardens. Steinernema nematodes can be effective in controlling white grubs in the soil.
Billbugs: Billbugs are weevil-like insects that primarily affect turfgrass. They lay their eggs in grass stems, and the larvae feed on the stems and roots. Steinernema nematodes can help control billbug larvae in the soil.
Sod Webworms: Sod webworms are the larvae of lawn moths that feed on grass blades, causing irregular patches of damage. Steinernema nematodes can target and control the larvae of sod webworms in the soil.
Cutworms: Cutworms are caterpillar-like larvae that feed on various plants, including vegetables, ornamentals, and seedlings. Steinernema nematodes can be effective in controlling cutworm larvae in the soil.
Root Weevils: Root weevils, such as black vine weevils, feed on the leaves and roots of many ornamental plants. Steinernema nematodes can help manage the larvae of root weevils in the soil.
Ants: Ants are social insects that belong to the family Formicidae. They are highly organized and work together in colonies to search for food, build nests, and care for their young. Ants can be found in various environments, including lawns, gardens, and homes.
Fungus Gnats: Fungus gnats are small, flying insects that belong to the family Sciaridae. They are commonly found in moist environments, such as potted plants, greenhouses, and indoor spaces. Fungus gnats are attracted to decaying organic matter and fungus, which serve as their primary food sources.
Thrips: Thrips are tiny, slender insects that belong to the order Thysanoptera. They can be found in various environments, including gardens, greenhouses, and agricultural fields. Thrips have distinctive elongated bodies and fringed wings.
Ladybugs should be protected and treasured. They overwinter under dry leaves in the garden. Don't disturb them too early in the spring - they need their rest!
Ladybugs come to us dormant in cold packs. We then refrigerate at greengate to keep them in a dormant state. You may see a couple crawling around the bag, but most will be dormant. This is totally normal and they are very far from being dead. By the time you get home you will notice that they are waking up! Perhaps quite vehemently. It's okay. Let them get going in the bag, but as soon as you get home to prepare a spot for them. This is usually in your garden where the aphids are. Water the area you have chosen to release them. Let water stand in puddles and in drops on the leaves. This is an important step as when they wake up they are both hungry and thirsty. If there is no water there for them readily available then they will take off to find some and you don't want that. You want them to drink right where their food source is. Once they have quenched their thirst, they are going to set out looking for a meal. Both grubs and adults are on the menu. Release them at the base of the plant by just gently shaking them out of the bag medium and all. You can also let them loose in the branches and leaves as long as there is water there for them. Once they have been released sit back and relax. Mother Nature is now in charge. It won't take much time for a package of ladybugs to completely clear your plants. You should see a major reduction in just a couple of days as ladybugs are effective predators.
Leave some debris around your garden to help maintain as many ladybugs in your garden as possible. They will stick around if there is food, water and shelter. An area with lots of debris like bark, leaves, and piles of grass are excellent places for the ladybug to live in over winter, so as long as you provide these needs they should pretty much feel right at home.
Spiders are 'good guys' and should be welcomed. If they are a nuisance in certain areas, they can be discouraged with periodic sprays of cold water.
Honeybees are well-known black and yellow, furry flying insects. They are beneficial because they pollinate many of our flowering plants by distributing pollen while feeding on nectar. Without them, we would have less fruit. They generally don't bother people unless disturbed.
Honeybees are very useful and should be left to do their jobs. If they are a concern, plants they are attracted to should not be planted near 'people places'.
Mason bees do not produce honey. They also do not like to travel more than a few hundred feet from their nests. This makes them perfect for backyard bee enthusiasts. In the wild they build a nest inside tunnels left behind by tree boring insects. Mason bees cannot dig the tunnels themselves, but most look for an abandoned one. To help you help this super important polinator, we sell Mason bee "condos"..... (learn more)
They are one of the 'garbage men' of the plant world and are very useful in eliminating decaying plants left on the soil.
Ground beetles do no harm and should not be disturbed just because they are not 'pretty'!
Dragonflies are attractive and eat lots of mosquitoes - what more could you ask for?
Birch Leaf Miner can be prevented for the summer season with a systemic insecticide be placed in the soil at the drip line of the tree as the tree is leafing out. It will move up to the leaves and kill insects that between the leaf layers. Do not apply to young or newly planted trees. It does not need to be done every year. Birch Leaf Miner cannot be controlled by contact insecticides.
Lilac leaf miner can be controlled by painting each branch of the shrub between the leaf layers, during that summer. It should be applied to a different area of the bark each year, and should not be done every year. Lilac leaf miner cannot be controlled by contact insecticides.
Poplar leaf miners do little harm other than to appearance. There is no chemical control, as the ends of roots are impossible to find (for soil drench) and the bark too thick for painting. They can do considerable damage but do not endanger the tree.
The larvae are tan with two rows of black spots and black heads. They skeletonize leaves of poplar trees, so only the large veins are left.
Cottonwood Leaf Beetles can be controlled with a contact insecticide sprayed on the tree when the insects are present. They can do considerable damage but do not endanger the tree.
They suck the sap from the leaves, leaving them mottled with white spots. By late summer the leaves become brown and crisp.
Leafhoppers can be controlled with contact insecticides sprayed on the insects. The insects are often on the undersides of vine leaves, and many vines are against walls and fences, preventing the chemical from reaching them. If a garden hose can be aimed into the foliage it can dislodge many of them.
They are usually seen on sunny fences or walls of buildings. They are attracted to box elder (Manitoba maple) trees. The small red insects are juvenile.
Box Elder bugs do little harm and can be safely ignored. A strong stream of water from a garden hose can discourage them.
They pierce the leaf tissue and suck liquid from the cells of the leaf, leaving yellow stippling on the upper side and brown spots of excrement on the underside.
Ash plant bugs may be sprayed with a contact insecticide if seen early enough to prevent damage but are not usually noticed until it is obvious. Damage done is not serious.
Some feed on birch, willow, ash and oak foliage. Others are sucking insects that feed on tomatoes. They all have sturdy bodies with angular shoulders and obvious antennae.
Stink bugs can be controlled with contact insecticides if in large numbers. Use one that is appropriate for the plants affected.
The larvae pierce the leaf and suck fluids from it, causing light flecks on the upper side of the leaf. The dark, sticky excrement on the underside of the leaf can be enough to stop the leaves from manufacturing food.
Lace bugs can be controlled with contact insecticides if in large numbers. Use one that is appropriate for the plants affected.
The damage they do is minimal compared to that of their larva. White grubs (the larval stage) spend up to three years in the soil, eating the roots of lawns and root vegetables, particularly potatoes.
Do not plant potatoes in an area infected by June bugs. There is no chemical control for potatoes, but lawns can be treated with soil or liquid insecticides appropriate for lawns.
The female also covers her eggs with froth. Adults resemble brown leafhoppers and are not covered with spittle. Both nymphs and adults pierce foliage and twigs to feed on sap.
Spittlebugs can be controlled with contact insecticides appropriate to the plants affected. Damage is unsightly and occasionally enough to harm the plant.
The adults feed on flower buds. It punctures them and the holes are obvious as the flowers open. They also feed on the tips of new rose shoots, causing them to die. The larvae feed on the reproductive parts of the flowers.
Rose Curculio dusts and sprays are available to control Rose Curculios as they occur.
They can be found on the stems, flower buds or new leaves and can attack almost any plant by sucking sap from the tissue. Leaves often curl over and are stunted, and a sticky residue called honeydew can be a nuisance. Ants are often seen in these areas as they like the sweet honeydew.
Aphids can be controlled with contact insecticides but they will kill only those insects they touch. The insects are often inside a rolled up leaf and contact is unpredictable. There are many generations, so it is impossible to eliminate them all. A frequent, hard spray of water will keep them somewhat under control.
Leaves curl and become very unsightly but little damage is done to the tree. Later in the summer they migrate to saskatoon, their alternate host. They live in the roots and can damage young seedlings.
Wooly Elm Aphids are difficult to kill with chemicals as the aphids are curled up inside the leaves and are not reached by contact insecticides. Dusts may be used in the soil of saskatoons if aphids are present, but be sure they are safe for food plants.
They leave a purplish lumpy look to cranberry leaves. The insects underneath the leaves do relatively little damage.
Aphids on Cranberry can be hosed off with a strong spray of water. Contact sprays suitable for fruiting plants can be used.
Aphids on Honeysuckle Shrubs cannot be controlled with chemical sprays, as the spray cannot contact the insects inside the folded leaves. Pruning the tips whenever aphids are seen, and removing them from the garden, is the only control.
They suck sap from the new wood that is easy to penetrate, and will cause small branch ends to die but do no major harm to mature trees.
Aphids on young trees should be sprayed with a contact insecticide when they are present. It may have to be repeated if more are seen later. Mature trees will not be harmed by the loss of twigs on the ends of the branches.
They do, of course, indicate that aphids are or have been present, but nothing need be done unless actively feeding insects are seen.
Aphid skins need no control unless live aphids are also present.
They are long and narrow and leave speckles on the leaves, which die prematurely. Thrips can be controlled with contact insecticides when insects are present.
There are two generations per year. Willow Sawfly Larvae can be picked off or controlled by contact insecticides when present if in large numbers.
The young larvae eat the tissue between the veins of leaves close to the ends of branches. Older larvae eat all but the largest mid-vein. Nematus Sawfly Larvae can be controlled by contact insecticides if present in large numbers.
They feed on leaf tissue, leaving dry areas between the veins. They are common on Purple Leaf Plum and Cotoneaster. They are most active in the fall, so plant growth is not affected. Pear Slugs can be controlled with contact insecticides if numbers are excessive.
They eat leaves of Elm, Willow, and Aspen and can defoliate smaller trees. They are the larvae of the mourning cloak butterfly. Caterpillars that are exposed can be killed with contact insecticides, but those rolled inside leaves will not be affected if the spray cannot come in contact with them.
As feeding continues, the holes gradually enlarge until only leaf veins are intact. Trees produce another set of leaves a few weeks later, but severe infestations can weaken a tree. The caterpillars drop on silken threads to move to new areas. They move with a looping motion. Mature larvae of Spring Cankerworms overwinter in the soil and pupate in the very early spring, emerging soon to begin feeding. Fall Cankerworm eggs overwinter on trees and hatch in late May to begin feeding.
Cankerworms that are exposed can be killed with contact insecticides, but those rolled inside leaves will not be affected if the spray cannot come in contact with them. A biological insecticide controls them when they are young and feeding.
The adult is a reddish-orange moth and the larva is a tan caterpillar with a black head. They live in silk-covered tents which are very unsightly. Ugly Nest Caterpillars that are exposed can be killed with contact insecticides, but those rolled inside leaves will not be affected if the spray cannot come in contact with them.
It does not do enough damage to cause concern. The adult is a gray moth. Red-cheeked loopers can be controlled by a contact insecticide when they are present, if damage is enough to warrant it.
It defoliates willow and poplar, but causes little damage. The adult is a small grayish-yellow moth. Hydria Undulata can be controlled by a contact insecticide when it is present, if damage is enough to warrant it.
It feeds on birch and Willow leaves, but does minimal damage. The adult is dull, gray-brown moth. Lithophane Amanda can be controlled by a contact insecticide when it is present, if damage is enough to warrant it.
The adult is a tan tussock moth. The larvae eat leaves of Willow, Manitoba Maple, Birch and Aspen, but cause little damage. Wooly Bear Caterpillars can be controlled by a contact insecticide when it is present, if damage is enough to warrant it.
The head is blue-green and there is a pale yellow line along the side of the body. They defoliate Birch, Bur Oak and Willow. Giant Silkworms can be controlled by a contact insecticide when they are present, if damage is enough to warrant it.
They are caused by minute mites which trigger gall growth in the tree. A gall is the tree's way of protecting itself from an invader. Ends of branches beyond galls may die because the gall can constrict a branch and water cannot move along the branch. Poplar Bud Gall mite cannot be controlled with a chemical. Pruning off the growths is the only control.
Swellings on the ends of native willows look like pine cones. A gall is the tree's way of protecting itself from an invader. Ends of branches beyond galls may die because the gall can constrict a branch and water cannot move alongthe branch. Willow Pinecone Gall cannot be controlled with a chemical. Pruning off the growths is the only control.
A gall is the tree's way of protecting itself from an invader. Ends of branches beyond galls may die because the gall can constrict a branch and water cannot move along the branch. Rose Gall cannot be controlled with a chemical. Prune the canes down to well below the gall and remove from the garden.
Chokecherry Midge cannot be controlled with a chemical, as the insect is inside the fruit and any chemical affecting it would be eaten by those that eat the fruit (animals and birds as well as people).
They are caused by a sawfly which inserts the eggs into the fleshy layers of the leaves. Willow redgall does no harm to trees other than appearance. They are unsightly but cause no damage. There is no chemical control.
Eriophyid mite galls are unsightly but cause no damage. There is no chemical control.
The swellings look like strings of beads at the edges of the leaves of balsam poplar. Parathecabius Galls cause the leaves to be deformed but there is no danger to the tree. There is no chemical control.
Box Elder (Manitoba Maple) Leafgall causes the leaves to be deformed but there is no danger to the tree. There is no chemical control.
Psyllid Galls on roses cause the leaves to be deformed but there is no danger to the plants. There is no chemical control.
Crawlers emerge, and move to leaves for a short time in the summer. They spend the rest of their lives immobile on twigs. Oystershell Scale cannot be controlled with chemicals. Cutting off affected branches can be effective if infestation is light, but if they are on many branches or return after several prunings, removing the tree or shrub may be the only effective control.
Scale is a hard covering over the eggs of an insect which protects the eggs until they hatch. Crawlers emerge, and move to leaves for a short time in the summer. They spend the rest of their lives immobile on twigs.
Lecanium Scale cannot be controlled with chemicals. Cutting off affected branches can be effective if infestation is light, but if they are on many branches or return after several prunings, removing the tree or shrub may be the only effective control.
Scale is a hard covering over the eggs of an insect which protects the eggs until they hatch. Crawlers emerge, and move to leaves for a short time in the summer. They spend the rest of their lives immobile on twigs.
Scurfy Scale cannot be controlled with chemicals. Cutting off affected branches can be effective if infestation is light, but if they are on many branches or return after several prunings, removing the tree or shrub may be the only effective control.
Cottony Scale cannot be controlled with chemicals. Cutting off affected branches can be effective if infestation is light, but if they are on many branches or return after several prunings, removing the tree or shrub may be the only effective control.
The creamy white larvae excavate tunnels beneath the bark, producing a series of bumps. The adults chew D-shaped holes through the bark. Upper branches of trees die as the tops are affected the most. This insect is not commonly the cause of tree top death in our area. Lack of water in the fall is a much more common reason for the top of the tree not leafing out in the spring.
Bronze Birch Borer cannot be controlled by a chemical. Pruning the top back to healthy growth is the only control.
Trees under stress are most likely to be affected. Leaves on an affected tree branch will wilt suddenly and later die. A ring of small holes like a bracelet around the branch indicates beetle infection. There is no chemical control for Western Ash Bark Beetle. Infected branches should be removed as soon as seen and sealed in a plastic bag before discarding.
They feed on poplar foliage, and then cut crescent-shaped notches in the bark where they deposit eggs. The larvae are creamy white grubs that bore into the heart of the tree, ejecting sawdust as it occurs. Trees infested with poplar borers exude large amounts of brown sap. This does not kill the tree but it weakens it so it can break during windstorms. Woodpeckers are attracted to the tree in search of insects, and ants are attracted to the sap.
There is no chemical control for Poplar Borer. Affected branches should be removed. Areas where sap is flowing can be cleaned out and left open to heal.
They cause galls (swellings) on the tips of spruce tree branches that resemble small green pineapples at first, then become hard and brown.
Branch tips with missing needles are unsightly and new needles will not replace those that are lost. Yellow-headed Spruce Sawfly Larvae can be controlled with a contact insecticide only when they are present. It may have to be repeated if more are seen later.
The masses of frass and debris they produce in the center of the tree are unsightly. Web Spinning Sawfly webs and dead needles can be removed by a hard stream of a garden hose. By the time the damage is noticed the insects are usually gone. They cannot be controlled by a chemical unless it can be sprayed on the larvae.
Nesting Pine Sawfly webs and dead needles can be removed by a hard stream of a garden hose. By the time the damage is noticed the insects are usually gone. They cannot be controlled by a chemical unless it can be sprayed on the larvae.
She inserts eggs into the elongating shoots of larch trees in early June, causing them to curl downwards. The developing larvae eat the needles. Larch Sawfly larvae cannot be controlled by a chemical because it cannot come in contact with them inside the branches.
The larvae are greyish green with dark spots and reddish brown heads. Resin flow occurs from active galls as the larvae tunnel in below the bark, producing resin masses. The tunnelling often causes breakage of branches.
Pine Pitch Moth galls should be pruned back to the next branch below the gall. The branch beyond the gall will die because water cannot get past the gall, and will usually break off in a strong wind.
It attacks dead and dying spruce, pine, douglas fir and larch. It feeds on bark and foliage, then lays eggs in cracks in the bark. The greyish-white larvae enter the sapwood of the tree and tunnel further into the tree for two years. Chips and frass are expelled through holes in the bark.
White Spotted Sawyer attacks only dead or dying trees and does no damage to living trees. No control is necessary.
The leader curls over and the needles die by late summer. Small exit holes can be seen where adult weevils have emerged. White Pine Weevil cannot be controlled by a chemical. If the leader is pruned back to just above a healthy branch, it can be bent up and tied to a stick to form a new leader.
They are small, either white or red, and form fine webs between the needles or between small branches. They can infest junipers and spruce. Spider Mites are not insects, but members of the spider family. Frequent hosing the tree with a hard spray of a garden hose can keep them under control. If chemical control is desired, use a mite killer, not an insecticide.
They are rather large, black aphids, on the bark on the interior of the plant, so often unnoticed until needles become brown. They should be eliminated, as they can do considerable damage.
Aphids can be controlled with a contact insecticide sprayed well into the tree. Check the trees regularly for more aphids and spray as needed to eliminate them.
t attacks pine trees particularly. Eventually the tree becomes less healthy as needles discolor and drop.
Pine Needle Scale cannot be controlled by insecticides. The chemical cannot reach the insect underneath the scale. The tree can survive for may years with scale but there is a danger of it spreading to neighbouring trees. A badly infected tree may have to be removed.
Keep the soil free of any mulch and dead plant material, and water in the morning, to allow the soil to dry before nightfall, as they cannot move easily over dry soil. They cannot move across sand or diatomaceous earth, so a band of either will keep them away from particular plants. If slug bait is used, be sure it is covered well to prevent dogs and cats from eating it. Do not use near edible plants.
Every summer we have a flood of people looking to control ants in their yards. Ants don't do any real damage to plants above ground, it's the roots where the issue lies.
They burrow into in lawns and in gardens to set up nests and this is where damage is caused. They make lawns and beds unsightly well. The main issue with ants is their prolific abundance and their methodical nature to collect food from whatever source they can. They leave a chemical trail to the food source, so once a single ant has found a meal, basically, all the ants know where to go by following that signal. It can be into your garage, shed and even your home. Once a colony is set up they are hard to control based on pure numbers.
There are ways to deal with ants: traps, sprays, diatomaceous earth, topical chemicals such as Pyrethrin and drowning out the nest with water and a root feeder. All of these methods will help control the ants but to move them out takes a lot of work and some are not the most environmentally sound choices.
According to our well know Horticulturalist John Ostrowdun, Nematodes are by far the most effective control for ants.
Nematodes are a biological control that you apply with water to any ground that contains ants. Nematodes are microscopic worms that move through the soil structure that attack baby ant larvae. They are completely natural and will not harm any other plant or animal in your yard. They are biologically the anti-ant. Once Ant Nematodes are introduced into the soil structure then they do their thing attacking the larvae which leave that colony no choice but to move shop and set up somewhere else. Effectively, you are making your yard unholy ground for them and they'll quickly move along.
You apply nematodes through a sprayer and once applied all you need do is continue to water your yard for a few days following. Nematodes travel via water inside the soil structure. Adding water over the next few days ensures they are able to move freely enough to do their job.
Chemical control is available but some can be harmful to plants and some cannot be used near food plants. Read the label carefully before use.
Damaged plants are less healthy and tunnels in the roots of edible plants make them unsuitable for food. Small plants may wilt and die. Floating row covers (spun fabric covering plants) can prevent the flies from laying eggs in the soil and eliminate damage if no affected vegetables have been grown in the area for at least a year. Soil dusts are also available.
They eat the foliage very quickly, often stripping the plant. Dusts and sprays suitable for use on fruit can eliminate them on contact.
Tomato Hornworms do no particular harm, and can be safely ignored in a garden. Watch for the moths that come later!
If you allow the plants to grow to a height of about 18 inches, then cut them back to about 6", the insects will not infect new growth, as there is only one generation. The plants will take a little longer to bloom but will be free of the caterpillars. Alternatively, insecticide dust can be applied to new growth every few days from the time rosettes of leaves have formed until they reach a height of about 18'.
They live in the soil and emerge at night. They chew plants off at ground level, and some can also climb plants. Adults are white moths. Use physical barriers such as milk cartons or tin cans around susceptible plants. Dusts are available to put in soil, but not do not use near edible plants.
It lives beneath the soil and chews off roots of lawns. Irregular brown patches in the lawn signal possible damage. If you try to pull up the grass by the roots and it comes up easily, with few roots, sod webworm may be the culprit. Small light-colored moths flying close to the ground when the lawn is being mowed also indicate their presence.
An insecticide in a liquid or powder form appropriate for lawns will control sod webworms.
They chew tiny round holes in leaves of vegetables. If a large proportion of the leaf surface is gone, it can weaken small plants. Larvae feed on plant roots. Insecticides suitable for food crops may be used to control them.
They feed on materials containing protein, such as dead insects, but they also eat cereals, dry pet food and rice as well. Larder Beetles can be controlled by keeping possible food sources in sealed plastic or metal containers. Sprays for controlling household insects can be sprayed around baseboards.
They feed on potato tubers, causing shallow tunnels that make the potatoes inedible. Tuber Flea Beetles overwinter in garden residue on the soil. Keeping the area free of hiding places will reduce their numbers. Do not plant potatoes in the same area for several years.
The beetles are hard-shelled with yellow and black stripes running lengthwise. Orange/yellow eggs are laid underside of leaves. The larvae are red, armadillo-like creatures that eat voraciously. Dusts and sprays are available that are safe on edible plants. They can also be picked off plants by hand.
The larvae cause the most problems, feeding on roots and crowns, causing stunted leaves. Dusts or sprays suitable for use on food can be used for control.
Leaf Cutter Bees cause no harm unless the plants are being raised for show. There is no chemical control.
They enter through cracks or scars, and do not destroy healthy wood, so damage usually consists of weakening already decaying trees. Carpenter Ants cause no damage to healthy trees. They create nests in the wood of decaying trees.
Larvae live under water, and the emerging adults swarm at dusk for about two weeks. They cause no harm to people or plants, and are a food source for fish and birds.
Caddis Flies cause no harm to plants or people but they are a real nuisance. There is no registered insecticide for either the flies or for use near the river. Using yellow outdoor light bulbs stops them from swarming near homes, as they are not attracted to yellow lights.
They cause galls (swellings) on the tips of spruce tree branches that resemble small green pineapples at first, then become hard and brown.
We have recently seen a surge in chinch bug infestations wreaking havoc on lawns across our city. These tiny pests can cause significant damage to your beautiful green turf, leaving you with unsightly brown patches and thinning grass. It's crucial to be aware of this problem and take proactive measures to protect your lawn from these voracious insects.
Chinch bugs (Blissus spp.) are small insects, about 3-4 mm in length, with black bodies and distinctive white wings. They are most active during hot and dry weather, which makes Calgary's climate particularly suitable for their proliferation. Chinch bugs feed on grass by piercing the stems and sucking out the plant fluids. This feeding activity leads to the gradual yellowing, browning, and thinning of affected areas, which can quickly spread if left unchecked.
White Grubs: White grubs are the larvae of various beetle species, such as Japanese beetles and June beetles. They feed on grassroots and can cause significant damage to lawns and gardens. Steinernema nematodes can be effective in controlling white grubs in the soil.
Yellowing and browning patches: Infested areas of your lawn will exhibit patches of yellowed or brown grass, often in irregular patterns.
Thinning grass: As the chinch bugs multiply and continue to feed, the affected areas may experience thinning, with grass becoming weak and sparse.
Presence of chinch bugs: Part the grass and look closely near the soil surface. Chinch bugs may be visible as tiny black insects with white wings, typically congregating in groups.
Confirm the infestation: Before proceeding with any treatment, it's advisable to confirm the presence of chinch bugs in your lawn.
Implement proper lawn care practices: Maintaining a healthy lawn is the first line of defense against chinch bugs. Follow best practices such as proper mowing height, regular watering, and appropriate fertilization. A robust and well-maintained lawn can withstand chinch bug attacks more effectively.
Consider insecticidal treatment: In severe cases, insecticides specifically labeled for chinch bug control may be necessary. It's worth mentioning that pesticide use should always be approached with caution, and it's important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer.
Spot treatment: If the infestation is localized, you may choose to treat only the affected areas rather than the entire lawn. This can minimize the use of chemicals and help conserve beneficial insects.
Natural solutions: If you prefer a more eco-friendly approach, explore organic options such as nematodes,; microscopic organisms that prey on chinch bugs and other pests. These can be applied to your lawn as a biological control measure.
Natural predators: Encouraging natural predators of chinch bugs, such as birds and ladybugs can provide some level of control. Creating bird-friendly habitats and avoiding the use of broad-spectrum insecticides that harm beneficial insects can help maintain a balanced ecosystem in your lawn.
By being aware of the chinch bug infestation problem in Calgary and taking early action, you can safeguard your lawn's health and beauty. Regular monitoring, prompt identification, and appropriate treatments will help you keep these pests at bay and maintain a vibrant and thriving lawn throughout the season.
Purchase nematodes: You can purchase nematodes from us here at the shop. Ensure that you choose nematodes specifically formulated for chinch bug control.
Application: Follow the instructions provided with the nematodes carefully. Typically, you'll need to mix the nematodes with water and apply the solution using a sprayer or watering can. It's important to apply the nematodes during the appropriate time, usually when the chinch bugs are in their early nymph stages.
Environmental conditions: Nematodes are most effective when the soil temperature is between 15°C and 30°C (59°F to 86°F). Ensure that the soil is moist before and after application, as it helps the nematodes move and seek out chinch bug larvae.
Repeat application: Depending on the severity of the infestation, you may need to repeat the nematode application. This helps ensure that the chinch bug population is adequately controlled.
If you think an insect may be causing a problem on your house plants, ask for help. Be sure you identify the insect before you use any chemical sprays. It may not be an insect at all: fungal infections are often mistaken as insect damage. Insecticides are ineffective in controlling fungal related problems. Cultural errors, watering too often or not enough, or too much or not enough light, could be the reason your plants are not doing well. These problems can only be corrected by changing cultural practices. If an insect is indeed the culprit, identifying the type of insect ensures that the best treatment, chemical or other, is used. If you are not sure, bring in a sample, a leaf with an insect on it, or the whole plant if it is small, and we will assist you in identifying and treating your pest problems.
Integrated pest management is all about using the safest method you can to control or eliminate a pest. This can include recognizing that what you see is not harmful to the plant and can be safely ignored. It might mean using a stream of water to dislodge insects, picking beetles off plants, or using spun polyester fabric to keep insects off vegetables so they aren't eaten by them, instead of us. In some cases, if a pesticide will prevent serious harm to the plant, it will help us decide the safest product to use to solve the problem, while doing as little damage as possible to the plant, us, and the environment around us.
Identifying the pest is the important first step. There are good books available, we have knowledgeable staff that can help you, and photographs of all of the most common pests are now on our website and can be found in this section. It is also important to recognize that all holes in leaves are not caused by insects, and that plants can survive very well with holes in their leaves. As long as there is enough leaf surface for photosynthesis, part of a leaf is just fine. If there are holes in leaves, that doesn't necessarily mean that an insect is there at that time. It may have eaten its fill and have gone by the time you notice the damage. There is no point in spraying a hole! Some holes are caused by a short-lived fungus. Spraying the tree with an insecticide, when a fungus which is no longer a problem caused the holes, is not going to help.
Insects such as ladybugs are wonderful aphid eaters and should be treasured. Remember, though, that you can't use insecticides in your garden and then expect the ladybugs to be happy there! Do you know what ladybug larvae look like? If you see little dark blue armadillos with orange spots on them, welcome them. They eat more aphids than their parents do.
Keeping plants healthy makes them less susceptible to pest problems. Most fungus lives best in wet, cool weather. Our nights are very cool and fungus will thrive on moist, cool leaves. Watering in the morning, when the weather will hopefully become warmer and drier, will make it much less likely that a fungus will grow. Some insects are drawn to plants that are under stress. Giving them the best growing conditions you can will cut down on damage. Some varieties of a plant are resistant to common insects or diseases, and are worth considering.
If you decide that a chemical pesticide is appropriate, it is very important to READ THE LABEL! The manufacturer has gone to a great deal of effort to find the most useful and safe concentration to use, and to identify plants that it can be used for. Making the mixture stronger won't work better, it likely won't be as effective, and the plant may suffer from too strong a concentration. The label will tell you what plants it can be used on, what insects it controls, when and how often to use it and what the concentration should be. Do it!
Ask us for help if you are concerned about a pest problem. We'll help you sort it out. Happy gardening!